7882875643.8dd5717.317b0090001c47c49529d86158f03635
juli 26, 2016

Eco-resorts i Portugal

Travel, Uncategorized

Magiske Portugal med overflod af økologiske designhoteller og Michelinmad. Måske den mest luksuriøse sommerferie, vi har haft.

Ovenpå et års husrenoveringsprojekter i Præstehaven trængte parforholdet til pleje, så vi brugte pengene på luksus i Portugal i stedet for på en parterapeut. Vi ved, at vi er nogle af de heldigste mennesker i verden og at parforholdskriser forårsaget af byggeprojekter er det vildeste ilandsproblem.

Lissabon

Vi boede på det hyggeligste lille guesthouse Flores midt i Lissabons gamle brostenbelagte bydel. Hver morgen hang der en kurv med brød, ost, pålæg og juice udenfor vores dør.

De første dage af ferien blev brugt på festivalen NOS Alive (se et særskilt indlæg fra festivalen her), så det var ideelt med morgenmad på sengen til at pleje tømmermændene. Solen skinnede og sommerferien bankede på, så tømmermændene blev heldigvishurtigt kureret.

Den første dag besøgte vi et relativt nyt madmarked, Time Out Lisboa. Joachim forsvandt hurtigt i vinbaren og jeg stod som sædvanligt og ventede på en slowjuice eller ledte forgæves efter et nogenlunde sundt måltid mad.

Det hippeste område, vi fandt i Lissabon, var LX Factory lidt vest for centrum. Det var en lille, lukket bydel med masser af caféer, restauranter og vintage- og designbutikker.

Efter festivalen i Lissabon lejede vi en bil og påbegyndte 11 dages roadtripeventyr med masser af hotelluksus og madoplevelser i portvinslandet.

Evora

Det første stop på vores roadtrip lå kun en lille køretur fra Lissabon. Vi havde booket 2 overnatninger på et lækkert, økologisk hotel Ecork Hotel omgivet af århundrede gamle kork- og oliventræer. Det var ren solskinsferie, afslapning og restituering ovenpå alt for mange festival fadøl.

Det var ekstremt varmt i Alentejo-regionen, men vi trodsede varmen og besøgte den Unesco-beskyttede lille naboby Evora. Efter en rundtur i katedralen Sé faldt vi tilfældigt over en nyåbnet restaurant og vinbar Cartuxa Enoteca, der serverede små, lækre frokostretter og god vin.

Fåreklap og solnedgang på vej til aftensmad og fodboldlandskamp i hotellets restaurant.

Vi ser aldrig fodbold, men en kamp skulle være den første. Og det var EM-finalen som Portugal vandt. Det var en spændende kamp og særligt stemningen blandt hotellets øvrige portugisiske gæster og personale var en kæmpe oplevelse. De efterfølgende dage kunne vi stadig mærke det festlige humør blandt portugiserne.

O Malho

På vejen til næste stop på vores roadtrip, Porto, fandt vi en meget landlig og idyllisk lille portugisisk fiskerestaurant, der er nævnt i Michelinguiden. Det var måske turens mest autentiske restaurantoplevelse.

Porto

Det gode ved vores roadtrip var, at vi havde udvalgt nogle få regioner hjemmefra, så køreturens forskellige strækninger ikke varede længere end 2-3 timer (modsat de lange køreafstande på vores USA Roadtrip). I Porto havde vi booket en lille studio lejlighed midt i centrum med udsigt ned til Dourofloden.

Vi besøgte bl.a. det historiske og berømte bibliotek, Livraria Lello, spiste mere Michelinanbefalede mad på restaurant Cafeina og gik en lang tur langs kysten ved Atlanterhavet, hvor Dourofloden munder ud.

En sejltur over floden til den anden side af Porto.

På modsatte side af floden fik vi bobler på det vildeste Relais & Châteaux hotel The Yeatman Hotel med smuk aftensol og udsigt over Dourofloden og Porto. Vi fik også selskab af en tam påfugl.

Portvinshygge og solnedgang på en rooftopbar.

Restaurant Largo de Paco

På vej til den nordligste del af vores roadtrip, La Pedras Salgadas, stoppede vi i en lille historisk by Amarante, hvor der ligger en lækker Michelinrestaurant Largo de Paco i Relais & Châteaux hotellet Casa da Calcada.

Farverne og indretningen i restauranten var ret gakkede og ikke helt vores smag. Men det var fedt at opleve en 1-stjernet Michelinrestaurant med mange små og skøre appetizers.

Pedras Salgadas Spa & Nature Park

Den mest vanvittige hoteloplevelse, jeg nogensinde har haft, var på det økologiske designhotel Pedras Salgadas i den nordlige del af Portugal.

Hotellet bestod af 13 små miljøvenlige træhuse, der er bygget og individuelt tilpasset mellem parkens store træer, så vi fik følelsen af at sove midt i en skov. Vores træhus lå i den bagerste del af parken, så vi blev kørt dertil i en golfvogn.

Vi fik udleveret to cykler, så vi kunne transportere os rundt i parken.

En af dagene lånte vi ketcher i receptionen og spillede tennis.

Bagefter tog vi på en lang cykeltur rundt i de omkringliggende bjerge.

Vi fandt et supermarket og købte cava med hjem til aftenhygge på terrassen.

Dourodalen

Efter et par afslapningsdage i Pedras Salgadas Park kørte vi syd på mod portvinsområdet ved Dourofloden og var til portvinssmagning i Pinhao.

Cooking & Nature Emotionel Hotel

Efter turens længste strækning landede vi ved poolen på endnu et økologisk oplevelseshotel Cooking & Nature midt i en stor olivenplantage.

Vi stod selv for at tilberede aftensmaden, som er en del af hotellets koncept. Vi havde bestilt en kok til at hjælpe os med lave traditionel, portugisisk aftensmad bestående af nationalretten Bacalhau.

Det var en sjov og kreativ oplevelse med masser af samarbejde. Godt for parforholdet.

Vi sluttede aftenen af med bålhygge i hotellets have.

Rio de Praho

Turens sidste eco-resort, Rio de Praho, ligger ca. 100 km nord for Lissabon i en lille bugt ud til Atlanterhavet. Vi boede i en bunkerlignende lejlighed med græs på taget.

Pga. hotellets beliggenhed ved bugten var vejret meget mildt og knap så varmt som de øvrige regioner. Vi hoppede derfor en tur i sauna og tog efterfølgende en kølig dukkert i poolen. Vi fik også tid til bålhygge og meditation.

Peniche

Vi kørte ned langs kysten på turen tilbage til Lissabon.

På vejen stoppede vi i fiskeribyen Peniche og besøgte det gamle fængsel Fortaleza fra det 16. århundrede. Hvis vi havde haft mere tid, ville vi gerne have taget surf-lektioner på de lækre omkringliggende sandstrande.

Pena Palace

Vi stoppede på toppen. På toppen af et bjerg i den romantiske by Sintra. Vi besøgte det eventyrlige slot Pena, der står på UNESCO’s verdensarvliste. For at komme op til slottet kørte vi først ad en meget kringlet vej og derefter gik vi gennem den frodige park. Det var en smuk afslutning på en paradisisk ferie i Portugal.

Læs om slottet og H.C. Andersens besøg i 1866 i Kristelig Dagblad her.

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